Fingernail polish remover- remember fingernail polish is paint. Dab some on the spot with a Q-tip and the try to pick the paint off.

Rubbing alcohol or vodka ( now if the spot doesn't come off just take a stiff drink and you won't care- only kidding!) applied to the spot may remove it. Test for colorfastness first and let it stand for about 5 minutes .

Hairspray- spray the spot with hairspray, hold under a dripping faucet of cold water and then scrape off carefully with a knife.

Paint brush cleaner- Paint brush cleaner such as Mona Lisa Pink Soap may remove the spot.

Old metal may have an accumulation of dirt, rust and grease that must be removed before painting. I use a kitchen scrubby or wire brush- water can add to the rusting process so avoid using it if possible. If you do wash the item be sure to let it dry for at least 24 hours. Rust can never be completely removed but remove as much as possible

Wipe the entire piece with mineral spirits- this will remove any greasy residue and prepare the piece for priming

When painting the entire piece mask off or remove pieces you do not wished painted. Spray with a matte finished Rustoleum . Be sure to use a matte finish a shiny surface is hard to paint on. Apply two or three coats of spray (thin coats do not run or drip as much). Allow the piece to dry thoroughly between coats

If you wish to paint only an area on your piece trace the silhouette on and then apply a brush on matte Rustoleum paint in light coats letting it dry completely

Now your ready to paint your project !

Remove all dirt, grime and labels from the glass by soaking it in hot dish soap water usually for about a half hour then thoroughly let it dry.

After the glass is clean wipe with either rubbing alcohol or white vinegar to remove any grease or soap residue- try not to handle the glass after doing this the grease from your fingers can make the paint not stick

There are three ways you can basecoat your piece I have found all three work equally as well

Spray the piece with Krylon Matte Finish 1311- this method works well when you wish to paint only a portion of the piece. The glass will all appear dull but will once again be shiny when you varnish with a gloss varnish after painting the piece.

Base coat with flat latex wall paint doing 2-3 coats. Let the paint cure for a least 8 hours between each coat. I also like to lightly sand between each coat with a piece of a brown paper bag (make sure it is unprinted) this seems to smooth out an imperfections in the paint and seal it.
Spray paint with nice light coats letting it thoroughly dry between each coat until you can no longer see through the glass being sure to let the paint dry thoroughly between each coat

Now you can paint the piece with acrylic paint just like a piece of wood.

To seal your finish piece spray or brush with a varnish- my preference is
Delta- Perm -enamel Clear Gloss Glaze for a shiny finish or Delta- Perm -enamel Clear Matte Glaze for a matte finish

When the piece is completely dry from painting ( at least 24 hours) remove all your tracing lines and carbon smudges with a artist gum eraser and give the piece at least 2 coats of a good varnish.

Dry well at least again for 24 hours following the directions on the can of varnish

To make the antiquing glaze mix tube oil paint ( I prefer either burnt umber or raw sienna) with a few drops of paint thinner on your palette. This should mix to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Brush or rub on with a soft cloth the glazing mix covering the entire piece. Let it stand for 5 to 20 minutes depending one the weather ( heat and humidity effect this). Let the glaze stand on the piece until it gets slippery but not until it gets sticky or gummy.

Now with a soft cloth( old t shirts work great for this) begin to rub in a circular motion taking off a much or as little of the glaze as you like softly blending the areas together.

Take off more glaze in the areas you wish lighter and highlighted. If you take off too much just add some glaze back on and repeat the process