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Folk Art Painting-
Distressing
Distressing is one of the most effective and easiest ways to age furniture
or a painted piece. We can take a new piece and make it look like it has
been around for years and been touched by hands many times with a very
simple technique using candle wax. I prefer using beeswax candles for
this but any white candle may be used.
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First
look at the piece and decide if you wish the finished piece to look like
a piece that has been painted many times over, if so you will need to
paint two colors. If you wish the finish piece to be bare wood where
rubbed off you will only need to do a topcoat. |
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Sand the
entire piece with a fine grade sandpaper and wipe with a tack cloth |
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If you
wish a color beneath the paint rubbed off apply it now and allow to dry
for 2-4 hours. |
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Using
the candle on its side rub over the entire piece, paying special
attention to the edges and corners, anywhere the piece may have been
touched a lot ( around handles) areas where it would have naturally
gotten distressed |
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Now
paint the entire piece going over the wax with a topcoat, be sure to
paint with the grain of the wood. Let dry thoroughly |
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Using
steel wool rub the paint in the direction of the grain of the wood.
Where there is wax underneath the paint will come off revealing either
the bare wood or the color beneath. Avoid rubbing the steel wool against
the grain as this will create an ugly scratch effect rather than a
smooth distressed look. |
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If you
wish you can repeat this process to make the piece look like it has been
painted several times in different colors. |
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When
completely finished wipe the entire piece with a tack cloth and protect
the piece by varnishing. |
Distressing can be done on both metal and wood.....just remember to follow the
steps given before to prepare the surfaces for painting.
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Folk Art
Painting- Brush Tip- Even Floating
Even floating can sometimes be difficult to achieve on a long area to be
shaded. Try the following
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Dip a
large brush ( such as a 3/4 wash) in water and blot on a paper towel |
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Paint
the area to be shaded with the dampen brush |
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Side
load your brush with paint and blend on the palette. |
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Float
paint on the area until the paint begins to run out |
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Immediately while the float is still wet stroke back up, flipping over
your brush to the other side, to even the float out from beginning to
end.
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Folk Art Painting -Stippling
Stippling is a wonderful painting technique for painting cheeks, plant
foliage, fur and snow. It is easy to do with a few simple steps. When
stippling you will need to use either a deer foot brush or an old
scruffy brush that you have gotten paint down into the ferrule.
This should be a round brush and you may need to cut the bristles
shorter.
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Basecoat
and shade the area you wish to stipple first and let dry |
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You will
need to put out 3-5 colors in the same shade that you wish to stipple
with, start with the darkest color first and work to the lightest being
sure to leave some of your basecoat showing through or your piece will
just look muddy |
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Less
paint is better- with a the dry deer foot or old brush stick just the
tips of the bristles in your puddle of paint, then pounce on a paper
towel getting rid of the excess. Practice on a piece of paper if it
looks heavy or blobby you need to remove more paint and test again. |
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When the
color is light and airy you are ready to stipple on your project |
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Hold the
brush upright at a 90 degree angle and pounce lightly using the tip of
the bristles on to the project. Do not be heavy handed pounce lightly
and slowly. |
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Use
small circular motions overlaying the stippling so not to get definite
lines |
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Repeat
with the other colors remembering to go from darkest to lightest and
remember you can always add more so do this lightly.
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Folk Art Painting-
Brushes
It has been said "your painting is only as good as your brushes" and
this is so true. Buy the best quality brushes you can afford and take
care of them - they are truly worth the investment. There are various
types of brushes used in folk art painting and below I list some of
these and their use.
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Rounds-
Round brushes are round at the ferrule( the metal part of the brush) and
have pointed tips. They are ideal for painting small areas . I recommend
buying sizes #3,#6, #8 and #10. Choose the largest brush you can use for
the area painting allowing you to take fewer brush strokes and therefore
having a smoother surface |
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Liners-
Liners are thin brushes that are rounded at the ferrule and have
bristles that extend to a long fine point tip. The are used for painting
tiny areas and for lines. Paint used in liner brushes should be thinned
with water to the consistency of ink. I recommend buying sizes 10/0, 0,
#1. |
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Script
Liners- Script liners are very much like a liner brush except that the
bristles are longer and extend to a very fine point. The paint must be
thinned to ink consistency to use with this brush. This brush allows you
to paint very thin lines over a longer stretch, great for vines. I
recommend buying size 10/0, #1 and #3. |
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Flat
Brushes - Flat brushes are flat with square corners. on each outer tip.
The are used for base coating, washes as well as shading and
highlighting. I recommend buying sizes #10, #12, 1/2", 3/4" |
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Angular
Flats- Angular flat brushes are brushes that are cut on an angle at the
end of the bristles. They are perfect for highlighting and shading. I
recommend sizes 1/4",1/2". 5/8" and 3/4". |
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Filberts- Filbert Brushes are flat brushes with rounded bristle tips.
They can be used for base coating and are perfect for making leaves and
flower petals. I recommend sizes #6 and #8. |
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Deer
foot Brush- A deer foot brush is used for stippling for making snow,
foliage and fur |
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Remember
to take care of your brushes they are an investment and will last a long
time if cared for properly
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Folk Art Painting- Sanding Supplies
Sanding before painting and between basecoats is important to the look
of your finished item
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